The Oenophile Network Wine Blog

The second wines from Pauillac can be affordable and delicious, even with todays sky-high prices. Pichon-Lalande, in particular, frequently produces very pleasing second and sometimes even third growth wines. They generally reflect the typical Bourdeaux character of cedar, smoke, black currents and often a bit of tobac. However, unlike some in Bourdeaux, Pichon-Lalande can taste "supple, fruity and smooth enough to be drunk young" (Parker, Bourdeaux, 3rd Ed., p. 283). Pichon-Lalande's second growth often rivals the best clarets out there, regardless of growth.

I recently shared a bottle of the 2002 Réserve de la Comtesse Pauillac (Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande). Worth noting before you read further: this wine was only $25.

In Pauillac, 2002 was a very good vintage, though not a classic. Most of the first growths aren't ready to drink yet, but the second wines, like the 2002 Comtesse, are often very approachable and perfect for a weeknight or even a special occaision, depending on your budget and likes. This is probably not an ageworthy wine (<7 yrs), but it certainly will go well with your meal.

Here's what I tasted: intial aromas of smoke and current; upon hitting the tongue, I was initially hit with a slightly gamey taste (which some might dislike--I enjoyed it), followed by a cedary/smokey blast amid a taste of black currents. Perhaps most importantly for a wine in this price range, I found it to be well integrated and balanced, with smooth but present tanins and a soft finish. Definitely ready to drink now--you'll love it with pasta, roasted meats or probably something more exotic like roasted boar.

This is the sort of wine that I think I'll remember for a while. For only $25, a pleasant surprise.

My favorite wine grape is pinot noir. (See my Facebook group as evidence.) I was flipping through the internet this morning and noticed that there is a wonderful sounding tasting event scheduled at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone. Robert M. Parker, Jr. was scheduled to taste 12 new- and old-world pinot noirs together with an audience of 100 guests....three days ago, on Thursday October 26, 2006. Darn. I missed it.

I was pretty bummed about missing it (though I can't say I mind not spending the $500), so I dug around on the internet to see if I could find anyone's tasting notes from the event.

Here's why I found the internet reports especially interesting:

Robert Parker isn't known for his Pinot Noir tasting skills. He's had Pierre Rovani writing about Burgundy for the Wine Advocate for years (and Pierre's leaving), and his reputation for picking out big powerful wines seems almost the antithesis of a good Burgundy. I'm really curious to see what he says about these wines.

Part of the idea of the tasting was to taste the wines blind, and to see how well folks could pick the new- and old-world pinots correctly. Would the audience get them right? Would Parker?

How do the new- and old-world wines stack up against each other? I almost always favor Burgundy, but of late there have been some pretty Burgundian attempts at Pinot Noir in the new world too (Brewer-Clifton comes to mind).

I found three sites with some pretty good information, and I've listed them below. Here's the executive summary of what's interesting in these posts:
1. The top pick of the entire group was the least expensive wine ($50) -- 2004 ROAR "Gary's Vineyard" Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.

2. The $550 DRC. Wasn't. Good. The group tasted the 2002 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grands Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanee. As Pinotblogger wrote: "Forest floor and a little Brett. Parker called it “dirty” and I remember agreeing. Thin. Moderate and unremarkable acidity. Ho hum."

3. Parker loved the Kistler 2002 “Cuvee Catherine” Russian River Valley. Not a surprise that he'd like Kistler, but it is interesting to note that even in a blind tasting he picked it out when some thought it was so rich as to be almost syrupy. Not my idea of a Pinot Noir.

4. Looks like everyone struggled more with identifying the new- vs. old-world; even Parker. I'm slightly surprised at this, but I guess I shouldn't be. Blind tasting should be mandatory.

5. Wow. Burgundies have gotten so expensive that it isn't worth the risk anymore. Here's hoping that Allen Meadows decides to lower the subscription price to Burghound.

[Update on 10/29/06]
The thread at Mark Squires' Bulletin Board has become a very interesting one. There have been posts by some of the attendees, many of whom, themselves, are well known interesting folks including:
Frank Ostini (owner and Executive Chef of the Hitching Post II Restaurant and co-owner of Hartley Ostini Hitching Post Winery )

I felt privileged to be there. But I would rather enjoy these wines at their prime with food and not with 11 others.

Adam Lee (owner, Siduri Wines and the winemaker the Roar that was tasted) -- Adam goes through and provides his own tasting notes in the thread. They're extremely enlightening, as is the entire thread.
Others in the thread have remarked that the '02 Burgundies are 'closed' and that it isn't fair to compare them to wines that have less aging potential.

Worth a click.
[END update]

If you want more details -- in order of useful information (most to least):

Pinotblogger

Vinography

Mark Squiers' Bulletin Board (on eRobertParker.com)