The Oenophile Network Wine Blog

The second wines from Pauillac can be affordable and delicious, even with todays sky-high prices. Pichon-Lalande, in particular, frequently produces very pleasing second and sometimes even third growth wines. They generally reflect the typical Bourdeaux character of cedar, smoke, black currents and often a bit of tobac. However, unlike some in Bourdeaux, Pichon-Lalande can taste "supple, fruity and smooth enough to be drunk young" (Parker, Bourdeaux, 3rd Ed., p. 283). Pichon-Lalande's second growth often rivals the best clarets out there, regardless of growth.

I recently shared a bottle of the 2002 Réserve de la Comtesse Pauillac (Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande). Worth noting before you read further: this wine was only $25.

In Pauillac, 2002 was a very good vintage, though not a classic. Most of the first growths aren't ready to drink yet, but the second wines, like the 2002 Comtesse, are often very approachable and perfect for a weeknight or even a special occaision, depending on your budget and likes. This is probably not an ageworthy wine (<7 yrs), but it certainly will go well with your meal.

Here's what I tasted: intial aromas of smoke and current; upon hitting the tongue, I was initially hit with a slightly gamey taste (which some might dislike--I enjoyed it), followed by a cedary/smokey blast amid a taste of black currents. Perhaps most importantly for a wine in this price range, I found it to be well integrated and balanced, with smooth but present tanins and a soft finish. Definitely ready to drink now--you'll love it with pasta, roasted meats or probably something more exotic like roasted boar.

This is the sort of wine that I think I'll remember for a while. For only $25, a pleasant surprise.